Outgoing Mission Estate winemaker Paul Mooney has been overseeing the Mission’s entire wine production process for 45 years.
It’s a giant chunk of one man’s life – and not a “same old, same old” sort of life.
“Every vintage is different. There are challenges with each — some vintages are easier than others, but I enjoy both really” Mooney says.
He remains passionate about wine and wine making.
“Some of the people I have worked with have been really great people and I reflect on that a bit.”
He also acknowledges the personal support the industry provided when his wife Kate developed cancer in 2006.
A trust launched to raise funds for her treatment was hugely successful. He says they donated the surplus to other organisations to help other people with cancer.
In the beginning
Mission Estate was established in Greenmeadows in 1851 by a group of French Missionaries, Brothers of the Marist Order.
One of the last to work in the cellars was Brother John Cuttance. He mentored and influenced the young Mooney’s development as a winemaker in his early days at the Mission Estate.
“He was an awesome guy, a great mentor and a very, very good winemaker” Mooney said.
Cuttance had worked alongside oenologists from France’s University of Bourdeaux in France. He was a major influence on Mooney’s development as a winemaker.
This involved much study and collaboration with other local vintners, some of whom had been trained in Australia.
At first he used the “primitive” gear available until the Mission Estate began to expand and change things.
“It was only later, in the 90s when we got vineyards on the Gimblett Gravels, that we started to make more sort of serious and interesting wines.”
Fermenting success
Mooney thinks he may have been the first winemaker in New Zealand to make a whole-bunch pressed, barrel-fermented chardonnay – in 1983, though he acknowledges others have also made the same claim.
He’s had great vintages and terrible ones.
His first vintage was terrible. Seminary students ankle-deep in mud had to pick the grapes.
“We even worked on Good Friday. But this was tremendous fun … heightened by making friends with many of the students.”
His favourite vintage was 2009 he says.
“That was a vintage where all the fruits were fantastic. We have still got wines in the cellar in the wine library and they are just really fabulous still.”
Mooney thinks this year’s vintage is close to the quality of the 2009 one.
It’s a high note for him to finish on and a positive start for head winemaker Alex Roper who will take over Mooney’s role.
“He is very, very competent and I thought it is probably time to let him have a crack at it, do his thing and make the wine” Mooney says.
In 2019, Mooney was honoured by Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers with a life membership in recognition of his services to the region.
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